Green with Milk and Sugar

Today, Americans are some of the world’s biggest consumers of black teas; in Japan, green tea, especially sencha, is preferred. These national partialities, Robert Hellyer reveals, are deeply entwined. Tracing the trans-Pacific tea trade from the eighteenth century onward, Green with Milk and Sugar shows how interconnections between Japan and the United States have influenced the daily habits of people in both countries.Hellyer explores the forgotten American penchant for Japanese green tea and how it shaped Japanese tastes. In the nineteenth century, Americans favored green teas, which were imported from China until Japan developed an export industry centered on the United States. The influx of Japanese imports democratized green tea: Americans of all classes, particularly Midwesterners, made it their daily beverage—which they drank hot, often with milk and sugar. In the 1920s, socioeconomic trends and racial prejudices pushed Americans toward black teas from Ceylon and India. Facing a glut, Japanese merchants aggressively marketed sencha on their home and imperial markets, transforming it into an icon of Japanese culture.Featuring lively stories of the people involved in the tea trade—including samurai turned tea farmers and Hellyer’s own ancestors—Green with Milk and Sugar offers not only a social and commodity history of tea in the United States and Japan but also new insights into how national customs have profound if often hidden international dimensions.

[A] heady brew of the intertwined history of green tea in Japan, the United States and [Hellyer’s] own family . . . there is much to savor in this heavily researched study., A well-researched, elegantly written history . . . Highly recommended., Master storyteller Robert Hellyer draws readers into Green with Milk and Sugar . . . The book serves as a model for those seeking to write a good history of Japan, or any region . . . An outstanding contribution in many fields., Robert Hellyer is meticulous in describing the relevant history of both the US and Japan of these periods, and most history buffs would enjoy his exploration of the period, through the lens of tea., Who would have guessed that the American heartland had a penchant for green tea (served with milk and sugar) before World War II and that U.S. tea drinkers contributed to the ubiquity of sencha in modern Japan? This engagingly written, delightfully illustrated, and stimulating book brings a lost world of ‘teaways’ to light.

Robert Hellyer is associate professor of history at Wake Forest University. He is the author of Defining Engagement: Japan and Global Contexts, 1640–1868 (2009) and coeditor of The Meiji Restoration: Japan as a Global Nation (2020).